Pulled thread and Drawn thread books and their contents

[Lorelei Halley]

Hello
I've been thinking about this for a while. I want to expand my library on pulled thread but have limited money, so every dollar has to count. I propose that we each describe the books we have and tell something about what's in it: roughly how many different stitches are described, are there lots of photos of antique pieces, of modern work, of contemporary designs. Does it stress traditional table linen, modern work as art. Does it include practical advice on finishes. In other words, what makes a particular book especially useful. If another person has already described a particular book, but you have something to say, add your bit. Differing opinions are useful, too. I am especially hoping one of us will describe Altherr or Fry. Here's my contribution:

Moyra McNeil PULLED THREAD EMBROIDERY. Has over 70 stitches very well described, clear stitch photos. I prefer her book for how-to. Some photos of contemporary work, only 3 antique pieces which don't show detail. Has a chapter on various edge finisheds.
Esther Fangel, Ida Winckler & Agnete Madsen DANISH PULLED THREAD EMBROIDERY. First part has about 45 stitches, all of which appear on an antique sampler shown in several photos at the beginning of the book. Many of the stitches are composite. Several which are not in McNeil. Has a section of modern table linen designs using the stitches from the antique sampler that are diagrammed in the book. Most are geometric, some are curvilinear (the outlined then filled in kind).
Barbara Snook SPINNERIN NEEDLEWORK STITCHES. There is a 16 page section which has pulled thread stitches. Most are the same as the two above, but some show different spacing. About 60 stitches arranged alphabetically, not by stitch family.
50 COUNTED THREAD EMBROIDERY STITCHES Coats Sewing Group. Has about 16 pulled thread stitches, has several edge finishes and different ways of making edge picots.
S. Lawergren BOTTENSOMSMOTIV is not a stitch source, but rather shows motifs she has invented which are made of several pulled stitches and then shows ways of scattering these motifs for a project: table linens, lamps, tea cozy. These are all geometric counted thread designs, but complex and therefore interesting.
SAMMENTRAEKSMONSTRE I & II publ by Clara Waever, Copenhagen. Again, not about stitches, but collections of motifs composed of several pulled thread stitches, and how to use them on linens. Borders, square motifs, diamond shaped motifs. Nearly all geometric and counted thread type.
Heidi Haupt-Battaglia KOMM WIR STICKEN and WIR STICKEN WEITER. All about stitches, but a small section are pulled thread in the 2nd volume. Nearly all of her designs are counted thread designs made up of several counted thread stitches. She has some interesting pulled thread motifs. One thing she shows, which I haven't seen anywhere else, is honeycomb stitch (a wave stitch variant) worked in a diagonal line.

[Carolyne Foley]

Hi Loelei,

I have a couple of favourites.

1. Antonietta Monza Menossi 'IMIEI SFILATI' (My Drawn Thread Works) I think it is self published although printed by Litho Stampa. It has English translations alongside the Italian. It has a good article about the development of drawn thread work in Italy. It begins with a section on Technical details and explains 12 basic operations. She then has 9 variation that although not basic are not too hard. This is followed by 27 variations. Instructions on one page, full page photo of the finish piece on the next. Very detailed quite difficult. The next section is devoted to how to work corners. The final section is composite drawn thread works most of these are for an advanced stitcher.
Although this work is based on traditional stitches the designer has taken them to a new level. I know that she has other books but I don't think they have an English translation included.

2. Gay Eaton UKRAINIAN WHITEWORKS (self published 2005). This is an ethnic style of drawn thread work. Clear easy to read and follow instructions, very good information on the details, like starting and finishing. Eighteen stitches, sixteen patterns and lots more.

3. Christine Bishop SCHWALM EMBROIDERY Techniques and Designs, Sally Milner Publishing Pty Ltd Bowral NSW Australia, 1999. Another ethnic style of drawn thread work. Excellent background and photos of antique pieces. Again, this work is for an embroiderer with some skill.

4, Therese De Dillmont Encyclopedia of Needlework Chapter 111, Single and cut Open - Work. This now up as a web page. See Sharon's blog 'pintagle.com for the link.

Carolyne

[Claire623]

Lorelei - here are some of the books on my shelf that I have

Edna Wark: Drawn Fabric Embroidery: A Guide to Pulled thread work. 1979, 2003. After McNeill, my second most used reference book. A very complete section on working, with photos and stitch diagrams, including a number of variations not in McNeill. The new issue is tightly bound, with lots of examples of historic types of pulled thread, "contemporary" projects (well, 1979 contemporary :)) and a number of ethnic examples, too. For the money, as good as McNeill.

Gail Marsh :18th Century Embroidery Techniques (2006) Not a stitch guide but her section on whitework contains a number of sketches of extant Dresden lace designs, which can be used as inspiration/sources for recreating the technique. Overall, the book is very informative and gives a good sense of English needle practices in the 18th c. Copious colour illustrations.

Ruth Bleckwenn: (2000) Dresdner Spitzen - Point de Saxe Viruose Weissstickereien des 18.Jahrhunderts. In German, but the most complete detailing of Dresden lace, compiled as a catalogue companion to an exhibit from 2000. Copious illustrations & photographs, including more than 200 pieces of dresden lace, with dimensions, materials and general descriptions. Stitch schema, including a number not found in McNeill or Wark. Great history of the development of the technique and its design sources (I read German, but the pictures alone are worth it).

Eileen Bennett: A Notebook of Pulled Thread Stitches (1999) No photographs of the actual stitches, just a collection of stitch schema. Most are in McNeill or Wark but the stitch progressions are numbered, which makes it nice for when I teahc a class. I can photocopy the stitches I'm teaching and give them to students for reference as they're working. Coil bound. Not my favourite book, but it has its uses.

Kate Lofthouse: Complete Guide to Drawn Fabric (1933, 1956) A very early book with stitch schema. The working instructions are drawings, with glued in photographs of the completed stitches. A tiny book, and the photos are somewhat grainy (at least in my copy, which is a first edition). Most of the stitches are covered in McNeill & Wark, but there are some variations that appear unique to Lofthouse. Not a must have, more of a curiosity.

Claire

[Marcy M]

Hi All,

I have the book MASTERING THE ART OF PULLED THREAD EMBROIDERY by Ilse Altherr, 1989. I like it, though being a beginner, I'm not sure it's better than any of the other books listed. She has divided the book in sections of like stitches with a sampler that shows the stitches as tight, medium or loosely pulled -- which I find helpful. Her diagrams and photos are clear and easy to follow. Do you have any questions about this book, Lorelei? I got it online at a used book store for about $11. I actually like it alot. It is very clear and organized.

I also have DANISH PULLED THREAD EMBROIDERY by Esther Fangel, Ida Winckler & Agnete Madsen, 1977. What I like about it is that the diagram in next to a photo of a stitched sample. I couldn't beat the price at a used book sale -- $2. And well worth that price.

Another book I have is PULLED THREAD WORKBOOK by Mary Fry, 1978. The diagrams are hand drawn and very large with several repetitions of each stitch. The photos not the clearest.

Marcy

[Jonni]

There is a pretty comprehensive explanation of contents for the book Ukrainian Drawn Thread Embroidery: Merezhka Poltavska by Yvette Stanton on her website Vetty Creations. It is a really expensive book, and only 48 pages. I won the book in a contest. I have used it but I think I would have been more than a little disappointed if I had paid

[Lorelei Halley]

Marcy
Could you tell me approximately how many stitches are in Altherr and how many in Fry? These are the two I have been thinking about, but perhaps I'd better consider some others also.

[Lorelei Halley]

Ladies
Thank you for all your answers so far. You have shown me that there are books out there that I didn't know existed. This is very valuable. Please, if anybody else wants to contribute to this strand, do.

[Jonni]

Schwalm Whitework, Renate Fernau, published by Lacis, 72 pages.
hems and ornamental hem borders (5), needleweaving (9), outline (8), ornamental stitches (6), filling (21), needleweaving (4), 12 combinations. Good diagrams with matching color pics, lots of finished examples and good combinations charted and pictured.
Drawn Fabric Embroidery, Agnes Leach, Dover, 113 pages.
Line stitches worked horizontally and vertically (6) and how to combine. Then most of these stitches and a couple more worked on the diagonal, and finally combinations. Then fillings start at stitch/pattern 34 and continue to 57 - however some of these are diagonal. The next chapter is diagonal fillings ending in stitch/pattern 81. There are more like chain, eyelets, outlines, several knotted line stitches and finally 8 edges. 109 stitches/patterns in all. B&W, excellent diagrams, and just a few B&W pics of finished work which are pretty hard to make out. Alphabetical index. I like this one because it has lots of combinations instead of just single stitches.
I have a few more, but besides some of the ones mentioned, these are two I find very helpful.
I think once you sit down and work out the diagrams for a few hours of practice, maybe it starts to make sense. Since the technique is about combining various stitches, knowing how to do them separately is only part of the picture. I love the pictures of finished projects, but then trying to figure out the components can be really difficult. IMHO anyway.

[Jonni]

Here's another one: The New Dictionary of Counted-Thread Embroidery Stitches; Rhoda Ochser Goldberg (Three Rivers Press) 190 pages, paperback.
It has 25 filling stitches, 14 eyelet stitches and a few assorted others - backstitch, faggot... 60 pages in all. B&W diagrams, 50 color plates in the middle, some B&W pictures (of projects) in the back. There are also quite a few blackwork patterns. It is readily available used on Amazon.

[Marcy M]

Lorelei

I will check on this when I get home tonight and get back to you tomorrow. Marcy

[Yvette Stanton]

Hi Jonni,

I'm sorry to hear that you didn't like my book. However, I am always pleased to receive constructive criticism (books do sometimes get revised) and would love to hear how you think I could improve it. I like to take all suggestions on board where possible.

I look forward to hearing from you. :-)

Yvette Stanton
Author of "Ukrainian Drawn Thread Embroidery: Merezhka Poltavska"
http://www.white-threads.blogspot.com

[Claire623]

Just found a brand new book on pulled thread last night! Those don't come along too often but this one just came out in October, 2008. "Embroidered with White: The 18th Century Fashion for Dresden Lace and Other Whiteworked Accessories" by Heather Toomer.

I've ordered it from the UK but I had the devil's own time tracking down a copy, so I'm betting it was a really limited print run. Amazon and Waterstone's are both out of stock already. I did find that the UK Embroiderers' Guild (that's where my copy is coming from) and the Royal School online bookstores. I'm really looking forward to seeing if this one is as good as her previous books. When it arrives, I'll let everyone know if it's worthwhile grabbing a copy while there are still a few left.

Claire

[Susan]

Hello Lorelei,

Apart from Italian books there is very little that I have been able to find on Drawn Thread Work from the last 20 - 30 years. Most of the books I have are closer to 100 years old.

Some books from my shelf -

Antoinetta Menossi - Rosa e Grigipo - Pink and Grey. A second book from this lady. 35 borders and 12 lovely corners. In English and Italian.

DMC library - Therese de Dillmont - Drawn Thread Work Series 1and 2 - can be found for free download on-line at the Antique Pattern Library. Good little books.

Kate McCrea Foster - 50 Designs for Mexican Drawn Thread Work - a small old book reprinted by Bette Feinstein in 1985. Scans of the original book can be found on-line.

The Art of Drawnwork - Butterick Publishing Company - originally published 1901 - reprinted by Lacis by scanning the original and currently available. The pictures are much clearer in the original if you can get it. Over a hundred pages starting with the basics and going on to show quite detailed work.

Needlecraft Practical Journals Drawn Work series 1 - 6 - scanned reprints can be found on-line. Lots of interesting bands and corners. Not well explained but good pictures.

Lady Evelyn's Needlework Collection - Mary-Dick Digges, Dolly Fehd, Nancy Lawson and Martha Vogt - Embroidery Research Press 1988. This is a gorgeous book. Lots of lovely photos of the fine whitework in Lady Evelyn's Collection housed at Blair Castle. Includes pulled work, drawn work and lace. A few projects from the authors in the back of the book. The collection photos are clear and detailed and can be used for inspiration.

Susan