How do you use stranded floss?

[Judy Luschen]

Hi, I'm new to stitchin fingers and have a question, probably a dumb question but here goes.  When I learned to do simple embroidery as a kid, the only thing available in our area was DMC stranded floss.  I was told if I needed to use two strands, that I should separate those two strands as a unit...if that makes sense.  In other words, I did not remove each strand separately.  In doing some recent reading on the 'net, I stumbled across a recommendation to "strip" stranded floss, remove single strands then thread them up together to use two or more strands.  Of course, now that I want to look at that website again, I can't find it back.

After 20+ years, I recently got back into hand embroidery when a local quilt shop offered some wonderful classes.  That teacher highly recommends Presencia Finca pearl cotton which I love working with but it's a bit pricey and sometimes the color I really need/want is more available in DMC stranded floss.  But I hate working with stranded floss!  I hate the way it untwists and individual strands actually end up different lengths as I'm stitching.  I hate trying to separate the strands.  I don't like the look of the thread if I strip it and then use 2 or 3 strands. 

So, I'm thinking I just don't know what I'm doing!  Any words of advice, or perhaps websites that might be useful?  Thanks!

Judy in OKC

[Deb P]

That's great!  Thank you everyone for all your help!

 

Cindy Chapman said:

Yes, you can cut it afterward.  Just be sure to allow enough fabric on each side to finish it off or frame.

[Sibille Kreideweiss]

You can actually use sewing linen, if you don't use embroidery stitches that would require a counted fabric. Many ribbon embroidery projects, beading and free hand embroidery are done on normal fabric. What you described to me sound like you can do this much easier.

Just be careful the fabric is not too thin and doesn't stretch. You also might want to consider working with an embroidery hoop to keep it straight. If it is a little on the thin side, back it first to give it more stability and prevent buckling of the fabric.

For your purposes this might even be a more easier and elegant option. Perhaps cheaper too.

[Deb P]

Yes, I plan to do free style embroidery like on crazy quilts.  Is it possible to use fabrics like silks, satins, brocades, velvets etc.?

 
Sibille Kreideweiss said:

You can actually use sewing linen, if you don't use embroidery stitches that would require a counted fabric. Many ribbon embroidery projects, beading and free hand embroidery are done on normal fabric. What you described to me sound like you can do this much easier.

Just be careful the fabric is not too thin and doesn't stretch. You also might want to consider working with an embroidery hoop to keep it straight. If it is a little on the thin side, back it first to give it more stability and prevent buckling of the fabric.

For your purposes this might even be a more easier and elegant option. Perhaps cheaper too.

[Sibille Kreideweiss]

You sure can. Just be aware that - when working on velvet - the stitches can sink into the pile, depending on what type of thread you use. A lot of goldwork has been done on velvent for example.

I would silk stabilise first, either with an iron on product or a good backing, before embroidering. It is also necessary to use a hoop for this and keep it very tight (I would do this with all soft and slippery fabrics anyway), otherwise you might find that the embroidery is not going into the direction you want it.

This sounds like a very lovely project.

 

Deb P said:

Yes, I plan to do free style embroidery like on crazy quilts.  Is it possible to use fabrics like silks, satins, brocades, velvets etc.?

 

[Deb P]

Would I do the same thing if I was using my sewing machine to add the embroidery?

 

Sibille Kreideweiss said:

You sure can. Just be aware that - when working on velvet - the stitches can sink into the pile, depending on what type of thread you use. A lot of goldwork has been done on velvent for example.

I would silk stabilise first, either with an iron on product or a good backing, before embroidering. It is also necessary to use a hoop for this and keep it very tight (I would do this with all soft and slippery fabrics anyway), otherwise you might find that the embroidery is not going into the direction you want it.

This sounds like a very lovely project.

 

Deb P said:

Yes, I plan to do free style embroidery like on crazy quilts.  Is it possible to use fabrics like silks, satins, brocades, velvets etc.?

 

[Cindy Chapman]

I would think so.  My DIL's mother does a fair amount of machine embroidery.  She made a lot of rompers for my GS when he was little, and even on the cottons & cotton/poly blends, she used a tearaway stabilizer on the back.  I would think it even more important on a precious fabric.

[Sibille Kreideweiss]

I'm not a machine embroiderer at all, but like Cindy said - you use stabiliser, this in its own gives the fabric enough stability to be cut out and glued on. There are different products and thicknesses on the market, just make sure you get an easy to use one.

I'd research the Internet a little or talk to a machine embroiderer, they can help you with this.

 

Deb P said:

Would I do the same thing if I was using my sewing machine to add the embroidery?

 

[Deb P]

I am using a sewing machine not a machine embroider...... but I think Using a tearaway stabilizer can't hurt.

The ladies on Stitchin Fingers are amazing!  Thank you so much for all your help!!

 

Sibille Kreideweiss said:

I'm not a machine embroiderer at all, but like Cindy said - you use stabiliser, this in its own gives the fabric enough stability to be cut out and glued on. There are different products and thicknesses on the market, just make sure you get an easy to use one.

I'd research the Internet a little or talk to a machine embroiderer, they can help you with this.

 

Deb P said:

Would I do the same thing if I was using my sewing machine to add the embroidery?

 

 

[Floss Hurley]

Hi Judy, "Stripping" your thread is the correct way to treat the stranded embroidery threads.  However, has anyone ever explained to you that thread has a "grain" that is, it should go in one direction instead of the other.  Years ago DMC used to put 2 hands on the small band on one of its threads to show you the correct way to pull it out so that you were staying "on grain".  By doing this, your embroidery will have a smoother look and you will have fewer knots and tangles in your thread.  By "stripping" your thread, you are allowing the 2 fibers to lay side by side as you place your stitch instead of having one thread jump on top of the other.

Use reasonable lengths of thread, perhaps no more than 18" at a time, strip the threads and most of all, use a laying tool or "trolley needle" of some sort.  You can google that to see what I mean.  By laying each stitch in gently with the laying tool, each stitch, with proper tension, will sit nicely next to its neighbor.

I have taught some embroidery and smocking classes and when I am working on a piece that is of particular interest to me, I iron my threads before using them.  I cut and strip my threads, and lay the iron over them and pull the threads out from under the hot iron which is by my side.  Secondarily, if it is not convenient to have the iron handy, I have used a dampened paper towel and pulled the threads through that to accomplish the same thing: to straighten out the threads.

If you forget all this and your threads are  tangling, take them out of your needle and turn them upside down as you have probably inserted them upside down or against the "grain".

Change your needles often during a project, too.

 Hope this helps.

[Floss Hurley]

Reply by Floss Hurley 2 seconds ago

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Hi Judy, "Stripping" your thread is the correct way to treat the stranded embroidery threads.  However, has anyone ever explained to you that thread has a "grain" that is, it should go in one direction instead of the other.  Years ago DMC used to put 2 hands on the small band on one of its threads to show you the correct way to pull it out so that you were staying "on grain".  By doing this, your embroidery will have a smoother look and you will have fewer knots and tangles in your thread.  By "stripping" your thread, you are allowing the 2 fibers to lay side by side as you place your stitch instead of having one thread jump on top of the other.

Use reasonable lengths of thread, perhaps no more than 18" at a time, strip the threads and most of all, use a laying tool or "trolley needle" of some sort.  You can google that to see what I mean.  By laying each stitch in gently with the laying tool, each stitch, with proper tension, will sit nicely next to its neighbor.

I have taught some embroidery and smocking classes and when I am working on a piece that is of particular interest to me, I iron my threads before using them.  I cut and strip my threads, and lay the iron over them and pull the threads out from under the hot iron which is by my side.  Secondarily, if it is not convenient to have the iron handy, I have used a dampened paper towel and pulled the threads through that to accomplish the same thing: to straighten out the threads.

If you forget all this and your threads are  tangling, take them out of your needle and turn them upside down as you have probably inserted them upside down or against the "grain".

Change your needles often during a project, too.

 Hope this helps.

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[Floss Hurley]

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