How do you use stranded floss?

[Judy Luschen]

Hi, I'm new to stitchin fingers and have a question, probably a dumb question but here goes.  When I learned to do simple embroidery as a kid, the only thing available in our area was DMC stranded floss.  I was told if I needed to use two strands, that I should separate those two strands as a unit...if that makes sense.  In other words, I did not remove each strand separately.  In doing some recent reading on the 'net, I stumbled across a recommendation to "strip" stranded floss, remove single strands then thread them up together to use two or more strands.  Of course, now that I want to look at that website again, I can't find it back.

After 20+ years, I recently got back into hand embroidery when a local quilt shop offered some wonderful classes.  That teacher highly recommends Presencia Finca pearl cotton which I love working with but it's a bit pricey and sometimes the color I really need/want is more available in DMC stranded floss.  But I hate working with stranded floss!  I hate the way it untwists and individual strands actually end up different lengths as I'm stitching.  I hate trying to separate the strands.  I don't like the look of the thread if I strip it and then use 2 or 3 strands. 

So, I'm thinking I just don't know what I'm doing!  Any words of advice, or perhaps websites that might be useful?  Thanks!

Judy in OKC

[Barbara Elmore]

Barbara Elmore said:

I'm going to post photos of how I make a stitch using unstripped stranded floss, so it lays exactly as if it were stripped. Very easy, very quick, no muss, no fuss! Hope the photos help 'explain' the concept.
#1. I've removed 2 ply of the 6 ply floss. Here it is in it's 'tangled' state, ready for forming a stitch. Notice the waste knot on the left.
#2. I insert the tip of my needle into the 4 ply at the base where they are emerging from the canvas....it immediately begins to separate them.
#3. I run the needle down the threads. They are laying perfect where the stitch will be made, but still remain
tangled in the rest of the thread length. At this point, you can take the stitch and ease the threads in to the canvas or fabric with the fingers of your other hand. Or..use a laying tool, which could be another needle.
#4. I show a wooden laying tool holding the separated threads in place.
#5. Stitch is taken over the laying tool. See how beautifully the threads lay! No stripping was necessary, and even if you strip, you still have to make sure the threads lay properly. Save yourself, is my motto! :-)

Now...let's see if I can upload the files. If they don't appear here, I'll upload them onto my page.

[Barbara Elmore]

Barbara Elmore said:

Barbara Elmore said:

I'm going to post photos of how I make a stitch using unstripped stranded floss, so it lays exactly as if it were stripped. Very easy, very quick, no muss, no fuss! Hope the photos help 'explain' the concept.
#1. I've removed 2 ply of the 6 ply floss. Here it is in it's 'tangled' state, ready for forming a stitch. Notice the waste knot on the left.
#2. I insert the tip of my needle into the 4 ply at the base where they are emerging from the canvas....it immediately begins to separate them.
#3. I run the needle down the threads. They are laying perfect where the stitch will be made, but still remain
tangled in the rest of the thread length. At this point, you can take the stitch and ease the threads in to the canvas or fabric with the fingers of your other hand. Or..use a laying tool, which could be another needle.
#4. I show a wooden laying tool holding the separated threads in place.
#5. Stitch is taken over the laying tool. See how beautifully the threads lay! No stripping was necessary, and even if you strip, you still have to make sure the threads lay properly. Save yourself, is my motto! :-)

Now...let's see if I can upload the files. If they don't appear here, I'll upload them onto my page.

[Deb P]

What size of perle thread should I be purchasing?  Also, is there a place in Canada to purchase?  I am a beginner and my knowledge is so limited.

sharonb said:

For what it is worth Judy - I strip stranded floss as it means is lays straighter however I use perle threads most of the time it comes in different sizes and like the way many of the surface stitches behave when I use it. It's a personal preference to stranded. DMC produce a range of perle threads
I also like silk - but that is another and more expensive story.

[Sibille Kreideweiss]

Deb, what fabric count do you use, and what do you need it for?

The perle thickness depends on the fabric count. I use Finca Presencia, they've fantastic quality perles, and the colours are rich. Silks are beautiful for surface stitches. There are some beautiful threads around.

For perle - as a rule of thumb - Size 5 for surface stitches up to 25 count, from there size 8. Use size 12 from 36 ct onwards. For needleweaving in Hardanger - size 8 till 25 ct, size 12 up to 36 ct, from there size 16.

Hope this helps.

For purchasing - check the Internet, if you don't have a craft shop at hand.

 

 

 

Deb P said:

What size of perle thread should I be purchasing?  Also, is there a place in Canada to purchase?  I am a beginner and my knowledge is so limited.

sharonb said:

For what it is worth Judy - I strip stranded floss as it means is lays straighter however I use perle threads most of the time it comes in different sizes and like the way many of the surface stitches behave when I use it. It's a personal preference to stranded. DMC produce a range of perle threads
I also like silk - but that is another and more expensive story.

[Deb P]

Are you talking about aida cloth when referring to count?  As a beginner, I am not sure of terms yet. 

If I explain what I want to do, maybe you can help me with the right fabrics to use as my base.  I am wanting to incorporate many different types of ribbons and yarns on a paper scrapbook page.  I want to create stems and flowers with beads.  I had originally thought I could create sprays that I could cut out and glue down to the page.  I am sure this is possible, but am unsure of the process.  I would like to be able to use all types of ribbons including seam binding that I have dyed.  After further reading of my new books, it appears that I may have to do this using my sewing machine. 

Any ideas would be helpful.

[Sibille Kreideweiss]

I refer to the fabric count itself. Aida is the standard cloth many beginners use for cross stitch (and in my opinion it isn't of any use for anything else, but others might see this differently). I'm mainly talking about linen. Linen comes in many types, shades and fabric counts. It can be evenweave (which means all threads have the same thickness) or very structured.

For your purpose I would definitely not use aida. It would just not look right. You want to have something lovely. Because you're a beginner you might want to look at low-count linen, like a 25 for example, or even a 20. Have a look at all the lovely threads, Caron for example. They have beautiful hand dyed variegated or subtle shaded threads that would make fantastic flowers. Or Dinky Dyes for example. If you use low-count linen, have a look at Watercolours. This is approx. a Perle 3 and comes in many, many shades. Or Aurora from Colour Streams. I'd suggest to surf the net and have a look first, before you make a decision. It's very hard, I know.

You can cut out shapes, but not too small. You need a good margin around the flowers or sprays you create. Be aware the fabric frays heavily the moment you've cut it. I'd suggest to keep the shape simple, overlock or overcast first and then cut above the overcast area. Trim the protruding threads back. You might want to cover these "seams" with a lovely trim for example. Because you want to glue it on, backing is not a viable option.

For ribbon flowers on their own: If you roll roses for examples, or make pansies, use a small piece of muslim fabric or thin felt as a base. Glue or sew the ribbon flowers onto the base, and then glue the base onto the scrapbooking page. Keep it small, so it doesn't show underneath the flower.

Be careful when choosing glue. Only use acid free glue. I'm sure you get good advise at your scrapbooking shop. If not, try an art shop. They usually have lots of acid free stuff. Birch also has acid free glue.

One last advice, Deb, don't use cheap quality fabrics or materials, always look for good quality in threads, fabrics and beads.

I hope this helps a little.

 

 

 

 

 

Deb P said:

Are you talking about aida cloth when referring to count?  As a beginner, I am not sure of terms yet. 

If I explain what I want to do, maybe you can help me with the right fabrics to use as my base.  I am wanting to incorporate many different types of ribbons and yarns on a paper scrapbook page.  I want to create stems and flowers with beads.  I had originally thought I could create sprays that I could cut out and glue down to the page.  I am sure this is possible, but am unsure of the process.  I would like to be able to use all types of ribbons including seam binding that I have dyed.  After further reading of my new books, it appears that I may have to do this using my sewing machine. 

Any ideas would be helpful.

[Deb P]

Thank you so much for your response Sibille. 

You have given me a wealth of information!  I will be doing some research on linen.  Our local fabric store is having a sale this weekend so I will have a look there for linen, but I am not sure they would know the count.  I have shopped for quilt fabrics and decorative threads but not linen.

As far as flowers - I wanted the flowers to be dimensional on my page, so your idea would work well!

Thanks again!

[Sibille Kreideweiss]

You're welcome, Deb.

Here is some info about fabric count for linen:

Cashel 28

Belfast 32

Dublin 25

Lugana 25, 28 & 32

Jobelan and Jubilee both 28

 

There is a simple way to find out the count/inch. Either measure or mark 1 inch square and count the fabric threads.

Have fun with your project.

 

 

 

 

Deb P said:

Thank you so much for your response Sibille. 

You have given me a wealth of information!  I will be doing some research on linen.  Our local fabric store is having a sale this weekend so I will have a look there for linen, but I am not sure they would know the count.  I have shopped for quilt fabrics and decorative threads but not linen.

As far as flowers - I wanted the flowers to be dimensional on my page, so your idea would work well!

Thanks again!

[Deb P]

Ok, the bulb just went on!  LOL!  Counts per inch!  Dah!  It takes a while!  LOL!

Thanks for your encouragement!

 

Hugs, Deb

[Cindy Chapman]

Be aware that sewig linen is not the same as linen for embroidery.  Most times, "stitching linens" are evenweave - in other words, have the sme thread for warp & weft, and are found at needlework shops.  "Sewing linens" for clothing are not necessarily evenweave, and you may end up with elongated designs, rather than "square".

I think you *could* use aida for your scrapbooking purpose.  It's heavier than linen, and I think would make a sturdy base, and be less expensive.  There are lovely hand-died & handpainted aidas also.  Caron threads, such as Wildflowers (matte, used as it comes) or Watercolours (1-ply) would work fine on aida. 

[Deb P]

Thanks Cindy, I will keep that in mind for sure!  I didn't know that the linens were different.  Can I cut aida cloth after I have completed my design?  Just want to be clear on this.

Thanks for your help.

 

Cindy Chapman said:

Be aware that sewig linen is not the same as linen for embroidery.  Most times, "stitching linens" are evenweave - in other words, have the sme thread for warp & weft, and are found at needlework shops.  "Sewing linens" for clothing are not necessarily evenweave, and you may end up with elongated designs, rather than "square".

I think you *could* use aida for your scrapbooking purpose.  It's heavier than linen, and I think would make a sturdy base, and be less expensive.  There are lovely hand-died & handpainted aidas also.  Caron threads, such as Wildflowers (matte, used as it comes) or Watercolours (1-ply) would work fine on aida. 

[Cindy Chapman]

Yes, you can cut it afterward.  Just be sure to allow enough fabric on each side to finish it off or frame.