I tried buying size 8 pearl cotton for my next Hardaenger project. The only colors i can get is white, off white, black and red, but not my purple or green. The only sizes for all the other colors is 5. So what can i do? Can i just split a size 5 thread in two and stitch or is that a too much of a difference?

thank you in advance.

Also i like to know, how the backside of a Hardaenger piece supposed to look like. Because i think mine looks like a mess.

thank you again

Anja

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Anja I use perle cotton a lot, usually 8`s and 12`s as I work on 28ct for my hardanger and usually buy DMC as they have a good selection of colours but their 12`s come in a much smaller range which is a problem to me. There is also anchor and recently I came accross presencia which I am now using as they come in a wide range of colours even in 16`s which is great for 36ct. All the colours are available in all sizes which has been a problem on the past with DMC and anchor.They do doth solid and varigated colours. If you go to Nordic Needlecraft on line they have a colour chart of what is available, it is a Scottish company but at least you could see the colours available and I am sure someone will sell it in the  sell it in the states. You ask about splitting the threads , no this would not work.

Re the back of your work, I have been doing hardanger for years and I must admit the back looks good, in fact I have put runners etc on the table upside down in the past and not realised. That sounds like I am bragging sorry do not mean it like that. Neatness will come with practice, I am sure other hardanger stitchers will come up with some ideas for you. Hope this helps and enjoy your creations.

come on hardanger ladies Anja wants some advice, shame that the word hardanger is not in the title as it would be spotted then.

Anja,

I agree with Margaret,splitting threads would not work.

As of the back if you post an image of the back of your work it'd be easier to suggest some ideas to make it better.Don't worry about the mess,we all live to learn , we'll learn from our mistakes,practice makes perfect.

I've never used perle cotton 16's.Thanks Margaret for the info.Will it work for filling stitches on 36ct and  which size would be better for kloster blocks on 36ct?

Margaret said:

Anja I use perle cotton a lot, usually 8`s and 12`s as I work on 28ct for my hardanger and usually buy DMC as they have a good selection of colours but their 12`s come in a much smaller range which is a problem to me. There is also anchor and recently I came accross presencia which I am now using as they come in a wide range of colours even in 16`s which is great for 36ct. All the colours are available in all sizes which has been a problem on the past with DMC and anchor.They do doth solid and varigated colours. If you go to Nordic Needlecraft on line they have a colour chart of what is available, it is a Scottish company but at least you could see the colours available and I am sure someone will sell it in the  sell it in the states. You ask about splitting the threads , no this would not work.

Re the back of your work, I have been doing hardanger for years and I must admit the back looks good, in fact I have put runners etc on the table upside down in the past and not realised. That sounds like I am bragging sorry do not mean it like that. Neatness will come with practice, I am sure other hardanger stitchers will come up with some ideas for you. Hope this helps and enjoy your creations.

Hi Anja,


have a look at Finca Presencia threads, they produce beautiful colours from size 5 - 16. All their colours come in size 5, 8, 12 + 16. Finca is a Spanish company and produces the most wonderful threads in quality and shine. They also produce nice variegated threads. Once again, available in all colours. I only use their threads for my models, when I don't choose hand dyed threads. Check out their US website for suppliers, just type in Presencia Hilaturas. I'm sure you'll find your colours.

You can't split perle thread, it won't work, as these are very thin fibers spun together and only work as a hole.

For a 36 ct you need size 12 for the kloster blocks and all surface stitches, for the needleweaving size 16. If you include eyelets you might even think about using 16 for this, but that's a matter of choice, I always like them a bit bolder.

Backs are not a problem with me, they always are neat. Some of my models have even be photographed from their backs by the magazine photographer for publications (happens only when the editor isn't present, of course, not that you can't tell). My husband has the habit to always put my table runners back up on the table after dusting....

Always run the threads neatly underneath stitches, not only when starting and finishing, but also when moving from one area to the next. Don't carry them over large areas, don't cross over needlewoven areas, not even over eyelets, because the threads do shine through the holes. Cut the threads close enough to the embroidery, when you've finished one, so it can't get caught with other stitches. But you still should have a little stub, which enables the thread to pull in a little more once the piece gets ironed or stretched.

Forgot to say that Presencia also produces very good quality metallic threads. I've used their stranded metallic for large areas of needleweaving for one of my Christmas designs.

So, if you're daring - and want something special, why not trying this. One strand of metallic is fine for 36 ct.

Hello Margaret,

thank you for your answer. I'm sorry i just can write you back. i've been working on some crochet stuff i got an order for and it's a lot lol. So spliting wont work. I've tried Nordic Needle already, that is where i usually buy my patterns and other stuff. I use DMC as well for my pearl cotton. I guess i have to look into the yellow pages and see what kind of stores we have here in the city that sells that kind of stuff.

Yea i figured that my back supposed to look more clean. I guess with the time, it will get better. 

thank you again



Margaret said:

Anja I use perle cotton a lot, usually 8`s and 12`s as I work on 28ct for my hardanger and usually buy DMC as they have a good selection of colours but their 12`s come in a much smaller range which is a problem to me. There is also anchor and recently I came accross presencia which I am now using as they come in a wide range of colours even in 16`s which is great for 36ct. All the colours are available in all sizes which has been a problem on the past with DMC and anchor.They do doth solid and varigated colours. If you go to Nordic Needlecraft on line they have a colour chart of what is available, it is a Scottish company but at least you could see the colours available and I am sure someone will sell it in the  sell it in the states. You ask about splitting the threads , no this would not work.

Re the back of your work, I have been doing hardanger for years and I must admit the back looks good, in fact I have put runners etc on the table upside down in the past and not realised. That sounds like I am bragging sorry do not mean it like that. Neatness will come with practice, I am sure other hardanger stitchers will come up with some ideas for you. Hope this helps and enjoy your creations.

Hello Anita,

thank you for your advice. As soon as i get some new batteries or find my battery charger, i will post a pic of my current Hardanger Doily. I've seen some people making a knot when they start with a new thread and i have seen it being weaved in. Now i wonder , if you weave it in, doesn't it come free when you wash it? I'm asking all those questions, because my Father in Law is opening an Vintage Store and wants me to make some crocheted Doilies and also Hardanger Doilies. And i don't wanna give something away that isn't the best, if you get my point. I am always a perfectionist and just can't help myself sorry lol

thank you 

Anja



Anita said:

Anja,

I agree with Margaret,splitting threads would not work.

As of the back if you post an image of the back of your work it'd be easier to suggest some ideas to make it better.Don't worry about the mess,we all live to learn , we'll learn from our mistakes,practice makes perfect.

Hello Sibille

thank you so much for your advice. I will deffently look into this company. i always thought there is only DMC. I've never heard of thread size 16 either, but get me some to practice. So far i only used Fabric with 22 count as it was given on the patterns. 

With the weaving in the back, that is exactly how i do do. Sometimes though i don't pull all the way and see it only when it's to late. I need to get better with that. My back side looks much better then my first project, which looks like a disaster to me lol. But no Master fell from the sky my grandma always said. 

thank you again

Anja



Sibille Kreideweiss said:

Hi Anja,


have a look at Finca Presencia threads, they produce beautiful colours from size 5 - 16. All their colours come in size 5, 8, 12 + 16. Finca is a Spanish company and produces the most wonderful threads in quality and shine. They also produce nice variegated threads. Once again, available in all colours. I only use their threads for my models, when I don't choose hand dyed threads. Check out their US website for suppliers, just type in Presencia Hilaturas. I'm sure you'll find your colours.

You can't split perle thread, it won't work, as these are very thin fibers spun together and only work as a hole.

For a 36 ct you need size 12 for the kloster blocks and all surface stitches, for the needleweaving size 16. If you include eyelets you might even think about using 16 for this, but that's a matter of choice, I always like them a bit bolder.

Backs are not a problem with me, they always are neat. Some of my models have even be photographed from their backs by the magazine photographer for publications (happens only when the editor isn't present, of course, not that you can't tell). My husband has the habit to always put my table runners back up on the table after dusting....

Always run the threads neatly underneath stitches, not only when starting and finishing, but also when moving from one area to the next. Don't carry them over large areas, don't cross over needlewoven areas, not even over eyelets, because the threads do shine through the holes. Cut the threads close enough to the embroidery, when you've finished one, so it can't get caught with other stitches. But you still should have a little stub, which enables the thread to pull in a little more once the piece gets ironed or stretched.

So i just found a webpage that carries # 12 DMC Pearl cotton in almost all colors. It's a little more then you buy in a local store, but at least i got what i need now. 

Hi Anja,

If you are talking about a waste knot,then it's ok. But if it's a permanent Knot at the back then a BIG NO.Weaving is the best option according to me.While finishing I always pass the thread through 5-6 blocks.I've washed some of my projects and it had stayed in place.I know some would not advice to wash the hardanger pieces..I've also used stranded cotton in some of my hardanger pieces...


Anja Harrington said:

Hello Anita,

thank you for your advice. As soon as i get some new batteries or find my battery charger, i will post a pic of my current Hardanger Doily. I've seen some people making a knot when they start with a new thread and i have seen it being weaved in. Now i wonder , if you weave it in, doesn't it come free when you wash it? I'm asking all those questions, because my Father in Law is opening an Vintage Store and wants me to make some crocheted Doilies and also Hardanger Doilies. And i don't wanna give something away that isn't the best, if you get my point. I am always a perfectionist and just can't help myself sorry lol

thank you 

Anja



Anita said:

Anja,

I agree with Margaret,splitting threads would not work.

As of the back if you post an image of the back of your work it'd be easier to suggest some ideas to make it better.Don't worry about the mess,we all live to learn , we'll learn from our mistakes,practice makes perfect.

Hi Anita

i really don't know the difference between waist knot and the other. I tried with the knot, but don't really like it for some reason. I also prefer to weave the ends in. 

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